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0 Votes
Did you know CRT glass is sitting in recycle bin warehouses and just sitting there? Why?

Because you can't break down CRT glass. The only thing you can recycle CRT glass into is other CRT glass

Now flat displays of many types are in demand, but that's mostly the movie watching community.

If you look at any serious video game tournament, the competitors use 15 to 18 inch CRT if 4 x 3 and 22 to 26 in CRTs if 16 by 9. They don't play their game footage in Jumbotrons.

It's probably safe to assume that there's more video game-playing CRT enthusiasts than there are Laser Disc CRT enthusiasts

Also ecologically, the energy use of CRTs vs Flat screens are on par with each other. . UNTIL you get to 18-20 inches. Then it exponentially increases when linearly adding a diagonal inch.

Since more economic demand is in gamer sized, and less electricity strain on gamer sized, let's clear up those recycle warehouses, and make HDMI input 16x9 CRT TVs and monitors that can do real optical light guns

Those Wiimote guns are not very accurate. They are "relatively" accurate, but not " absolutely" (Pixel-for-puxel accuracy). The only HD CRTs available are 35 inches 16x9 and only do 1080i.

Very few people wanted to hire the local football team to move that stuff.

And games have delay anyway with progressive to interlace conversion.

The CRT glass is just sitting there. Just take it.
0 Votes
I've seen component Jack's that use one color to be the yellow for video. However that requires setting up the language and ignores s video which is better than standard composite.

The biggest problem with S-Video is it requires a separate Jack. I've seen devices at RV stores which take a standard component video and let you add an S-Video to two of the three video cables.

This is how I proposed it the green components or luma a component mode is also the purple or the chroma in S-Video mode. The blue component as the blue chroma difference in component video, is also the gray cable or the luma in S-Video mode. Finally the red component or red difference in component mode is the video in composite mode.

This is a way you could auto switch between all three modes. I'm assuming the chroma in s video and the two chromas in component are supplemental signals and don't generate a signal on their own meeting you can't just have pure chroma. So if the luma is in the green, then it switches to component mode. If the luma is in the blue, then it's an S-Video mode. Finally a composite video signal which contains less bandwidth for both luma and chroma makes an integrated signal recognize in just the red therefore if a signal goes to red, its composite.

All you have to do is make an adapter with two RC males one gray one purple at what end and connect them to an S-Video female on the other. Connect the s video cord male in the female connect the grey in the grey / blue and collect the purple in the purple / green.

If nothing you have has S-Video you don't have to pay for it, but you can buy these adapters for your S Video equipment.

Also the 3.5 mm adaptors could be used for both left and right RCA as well as Mini toslink. You either plug into 3.5 to RCA L/R and also you can plug in your toslink male into a toslink female to mini toslink 3.5.

Finally for coaxial surround it can have a second function. If none of the three RCA's four components are plugged,. Then the coaxial input will represent an ntsc tuner to play really old video don't need an RCA to F-Type converter just plug the video game RCA cable straight into the coaxial port and make sure nothing else is plugged in.

Finally the switcher box what plug into the multi-port and you only plug-in what you need and make sure you leave everything else empty. So the Atari 2600 would only use a coaxial port the betamax would just use the red component which is composite and the 3.5 for left and right audio,. The LaserDisc will use s video which is blue / gray for luma a green flash purple for Chroma for sound you can either use the 3.5 as RCA 3.5 as toslink mini, and the coaxial as a direct Sound source.
0 Votes
I found some good news in 2009, I saved over $9,000 on a surround sound system. Instead of trying to have professionally installed a communal surround sound system in an asymmetric room which takes lots of labor to balance plus is only balance for one person in the room, I got Turtle Beach headsets which work on any media that outputs in Toslink a Dolby surround sound signal.

It's a lot cheaper and more realistic than communal surround. And I found a way to make it partially communal by transmitting the headphone output signal which is a two-track stereo signal through an FM channel that's that mean broadcast in your area and then you just receive it on an FM receiver with headphones plugged into it. Easy instant multiplication of a surround sound signal.

It doesn't make much sense with Turtle Beach headsets because that's for gaming, but for movie watching and TV watching and internet watching, FM transmitter the output is perfect for multiple users. The only cost of adding an extra user is adding an extra FM receiver and a headphone to plug it in, and it could be any stereo headphone that covers your ears shortly, no special headphones required.

But the problem is that Turtle Beach only translates from Dolby 7.1 discrete to Dolby Headphone. The problems come when the inbound signal is either DTS surround or lpcm surround. Natively DTS output silence unless your DVD player could convert DTS to Dolby, and even the best converters on the Xbox One do not have convincing sonic directionalism because it's doing a double translation first from DTS Toslink encoded to Dolby toslink encoded, and then from Dolby surround to Dolby headphone. The more times you translate the less elegant the language, and the directional information got lost in the shuffle.

with lpcm surround the problem is there's not enough bandwidth within the toslink cable to submit 6 uncompressed signals,. So it just sends and lpcm 2.0 signal through Toslink.

now unfortunately all the surround sound headphones are going in the wrong direction for movie lovers. Now all of them rely on internal computer / console surround encoders to translate surround sound into to track headphone and then pop that out through USB, while the device does nothing in and of itself.

The only way you can have an external decoder that works by itself that could work with Dolby Atmos. DTS X and lpcm 7.1,. Is to have an HDMI input and output with the middle device translating the Dolby Atmos DTS x + or lpcm 7.1 into either unprocessed sending it out to a communal system or process into surround headphone 2.0.

I never purchased a surround sound system other than my Turtle Beach. So I'm making assumptions about them. I assume all stereo decoders take a Dolby signal and converted to lpcm separated into multiple discrete speakers using the Dolby algorithm, and severely with the DTS signal and algorithm.

I assume the best way to convert any surround multitrack system to a headphone surround is to use the headphone encoder in the same language as the surround sound.

If I were to give it a model number I call it a 121, standing for a one-to-one conversion of surround language to headphone language.

Double translation ruins the surround effect. So Dolby Headphone converts everything from Dolby Pro Logic to Dolby Atmos, DTS X headphone converts everything from DTS x to the most basic version of DTS,. And lpcm headphone converts lpcm 7.1 and lower to a to track headphone soundtrack using method similar to Nintendo's headphone surround.

Another reason why I think this would be good is because Nintendo's headphone surround only works on the Wii U in gamepad mode and on the switch in docked mode. That's because the headphone plug is convenient to you. However a Wii U in wiimote mode as well as the switch in one of the undocumented woods will not work right because the headphone Port is so far away and they also interfere with your joycon / wiimote movement.

and then regardless of what it does to the surround HDMI signal the translator pipes out through a 3.5 mm headset and an FM transmitter so you could listen locally with wired headphones or you can listen anywhere the FM transmitter could broadcast and just add an FM signal to have surround Sound by a headphone locally where you are. Awesome multiple players at the same game could have headphone surround.... As long as everyone gets the same audio perspective, meaning everyone hears the sounds like it's coming from center stage.

this'll probably makes surround sound more common because a headphone decoder at FM transmitter a pair of common over-ear headphones and an FM receiver is cheaper then typical Dolby and DTS equipment. Plus it uses less energy so you don't need amplifier circuits, because you use less energy when the speakers are few centimeters to your ears on the earphones. Also you don't have to worry about dogs or cats chewing wires or knocking over speakers.
0 Votes
I noticed that by 2012 the number one 3D TV for those who insist on the 3D format was the PlayStation 3D TV. Why because for $200 you got the cheapest way to watch 3D.

Starting in 2013 they decide to put 3D on larger, more expensive, and more premium TVs.

My dad bought a Sony TV in 2008 and got a factory furnace replacement in 2009 for free. That TV still works today.

he would have bought a 3D TV except he did not want to throw out his perfectly working 2DTV.

If the word device you could add to any 2dtv to make it a 3D TV, kind of liking the same way you add Dolby surround to an existing TV,. And if it costs the same price as a PlayStation 3D TV did or less,. It'd be worth the pick up.

I think I got two different technologies that could be used to turn any 2D TV into 3D TV.

The shutter based technology is pretty easy. Sega invented it with the Sega Master System Sehascope 3D.

the only problem with getting that type of technology to work now is you have to compensate for Ping times.

However people complain about shutter based 3d, I prefer polar 3D. The problem with polar 3D is that a you have to buy the right size polar filter, and b) have it professionally installed or else the effect will not be good at all, and see requires such equipment it's exactly put on the 3D filter that the only people who could do it easily our professionals.

However I got a solution for the polar base glasses. I was thinking of a hybrid system which I call an active polar system. If there's a way you could change polarity by 90° in an instant, kind of like how LCD panels flicker alternate lie between total black and color, maybe the two alternating flickers could be opposite polarities, and the signal would be alternate frames, then all you have to sell is active polar filters that are approximately close to certain sizes. And also could be more amateurly installed then someone with a true puller kit.

Also there would be some strategies on 3D broadcasting that I proposed to an engineer at a Cleveland TV station which would make 3D television more 2d friendly.

The basic idea is if you don't want 3D do nothing.

I noticed some retro television stations were broadcasting in 30 Hertz. I also heard some television producers directors and Camerapeople preferred the look of 30 Hertz as more realistic, rather than 60 hertz which has the soap opera effect.

Just like Dolby surround information is encoded within the signal what brought out with the decoder,. Maybe we could default 3D TV as of 30 Hertz tag, an add a second timer called 3D, which on regular TV is ignored just like the Dolby surround information, but when you buy a quipment to decode it and display it,. Then the content will be in 3D.

It solves the two biggest problems that played 3D TV in 2012. One was 2d friendliness and the other was bandwidth concerns. Side by side half solves bandwidth concerns but ruins 2D friendliness. At the time you only other way around with simulcast 2D and 3D versions. Even if the second I was full HD and hidden and encoded. It would be a waste of a station to add a 2nd eye channel.

30 Hertz by two eyes makes non 3D TVs look at it like a 30 hertz by one eye show whenever 3d equipment is absent, and because the number one complaint is that that 3D sucks it's just that they don't want to be forced to watch everything at all times in 3D,. this is probably the easiest option where you could turn 3D on and off however you want whenever you want. It's always stored in 3d, and the only thing you have to do to make it 2d is throw away one eye.

Got more details coming soon. Just seeing if insignia might be interested in making the insignia Depth Charge, a device to turn any 2D TV into a 3D TV.
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