03-02-2009 07:18 PM
Alright, thanks a lot!
I'll go pick one up tomorow.
05-15-2009 05:22 AM
I'm having problems with my Aspire 5520 to.
After pressing the power button the laptop turns on briefly (about 5 seconds) then switches off. It continues to do this on its own in a loop continually until I disconnect the power source. If the battery is connected I need to take it out before it will stop trying to power up. I noticed that the cpu fan comes on initially during the laptops first attempt at powering up but stops after 5 seconds and will not start up again until the power is disconnected and I try to turn it on again. The screen remains blank at all times.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
05-15-2009 12:58 PM
05-18-2009 06:15 PM
05-18-2009 09:18 PM
rich11pc,
I have the exact same problem with my acer aspire 5520. When I turn it on, the fan turns on, then shuts off and then the notebook turns on for may be one or two seconds(nothing on the LC, no beep, no sound, no fan turning on), then turns off and loops until I remove the power. Did you figure anything out. Thanks..
05-18-2009 09:25 PM
07-07-2009 07:54 PM
07-08-2009 12:07 AM
One thing to mention is; Are you having the overheating problems when you are using it on battery or plugged in?
There are power plans and options in windows. On notebooks they are usually set to a balanced plan to conserve battery life. Depending on the power plan selected the notebook will either actively or passively cool the processor. Meaning that it will either run the fans or not, to conserve power.
If you go to control panel and click system and security, then power options (or just start then search for power options){in Vista} you will see the power plans. Click change plan settings, then change advanced power settings. You then scroll down to processor power management then system cooling policy you will see the options active(fan running) or passive(no fan).
Just worth checking if your having over heating problems.
And I can vouch for the cooling pad. I have one for both of my notebooks and even put one under my PS3. They work very well. The best ones I have found are the ones that are filled with some gritty material that keeps them cool. I personally have not had too much success with cooling pads with fans in them.
11-07-2009 07:27 AM
I had the same problem and applied the following fix which has so far seemed to work. Basically the machine is overheating...big time. If left for a few hours the chip will cool sufficiently to allow the machine to boot but will suddenly shut down after about 1 minute. Then every attempt after will cause the machine to cycle booting every 10 seconds or so. Not even enough time for the post screen to appear.
You will need to order a tube of genuine Ceramique Arctic silver heat sink paste. There are many fakes from china so buy from a trusted UK seller!
Remove the back cover plate to access the heat sink and fan area over the main board. Observe the copper heat pipe over the processor and the two rubber bungee things stuck to it.
(Leave the machine for an hour or so to cool, place the machine upside down but with the lid open. Now power up and place you finger on the copper heat pipe between the two bungees. You will feel this area of the pipe getting extremely hot - too hot to touch - as the machine boots. it will probably not even finish loading windows before the thermal safety cut out kicks in shutting down the machine.) This step is not essential but will determine if the fault is overheating rather than a main board fault.
REMOVE THE POWER SUPPLY AND BATTERY
Remove the fan (3 screws)
Remove the 4 screws over the processor chip holding the heat sink in place
Remove the heat sink
Inspect the heat sink for dust between the fins. I use a soft brush to remove dust. It’s way cheaper than using cans of compressed air.
Now it is necessary to replace the thermal compound on the processor. You may want to remove the chip. Use a small jeweller’s screw driver to turn the lock to the open position. Don’t forget to note the orientation of the chip and don't forget to lock it back in place when finished.
Wipe away all trace of the existing compound. I tried this next step twice before I got it to work. Firstly I used some white thermal compound I got with an AMD chip and was left over. This did not work so I investigated a better alternative. I ordered a small tube of Ceramique by Arctic Silver off the internet for the second attempt. You must use this! It is about £3.50 a tube, more than the regular stuff but evidently with good reason!
I also applied some to the two temperature sensors to the left of the chip. Ceramique Arctic silver is much more viscous than regular thermal paste and is white, not sliver. It’s quite awkward to apply so don’t worry about making it look pretty. If you have not ever applied thermal paste before check out instructions on Google first.
Put everything back together, except the back plate.
As before leave the machine upside down and open it. Press the power button and as before place your finger on the area between the two bungees. Interestingly it will get almost as hot but hopefully not cut out. Strangely after about three minutes it will begin to cool and from now on run without overheating and cutting out.
I hope this will work for you just as well. I would strongly suggest removing the fan once a year and cleaning out any dust in between the heat fins, as this model clearly has over heating issues.
04-08-2010 04:14 AM
The North Bridge it's the problem. The reballing of the nvidia BGA chip it's the only solution.
The continuosly resets occur because the procesor it's not recognized by the mother board. This issue occur when a contact (ball) from bga it's desoldered. Because inside the laptop the temeperature it's very high the balls start to melt and the vibration in the heat pipe produced by the cooling fan desolder the BGA balls, especially as they are recognized as brittle balls.
So, go to a specialized service, not an Acer service!!!, and asks them to reball the northbridge chip!
Excuse my english, have a nice day!
