Computers & Networking

[RealGeorgeW Valued Expert]

Howdy all. I have a bit of a problem with my HTPC.

I have a custom built HTPC that refuses to display video. It's an HTPC case, with an MSI board, Intel C2D 2.0GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 500GB HDD, GeForce GT 220 gfx, 500watt PSU, and a DVD RW.

The problem is that although it will power on, I cannot get it to output video to the receiver. I know it's setup correctly as it was an intermittent problem up until a few weeks ago when it flat out refused to POST. Even when powered off the LAN light stays amber, and I have yet to find anything referencing this on hardware forums.

It's driving me insane, and my girlfriend says fix it or toss it, and I'd rather not lose it. LOL.

I did read online of a possible fix : disconnecting power and switching the voltage selector to 230 for a few seconds, then back and plugging it in. Didn't work.

I'm assuming something has failed, most likely mobo, or PSU, but I can't tell which since it power on, but doesn't POST, so I can't really diagnose further without starting to spend cash(which is tight).

Helpful suggestions appreciated I can post a full list of part numbers if requested.

[macrobb]

What brand PSU? If it's not a quality one, I'd suspect that.
Also, try reseating the ram and GPU. It can't hurt.

One other thing you can try is to make sure you have a PC speaker connected to the four-pin speaker connector(of which only the outer two are used); you ought to be able to get some sort of beep-code which you can look up.

[RealGeorgeW Valued Expert]

PSU was included with the case so I'd have to tear it open to see. Probably same as the case (Apevia).

Tried another GPU and it didn't work either, tried the GPU in another system and it does work, so at least I'm somewhat sure it's not the PCIE slot. Haven't tried reseating the RAM though.

The case doesn't speaker, I might have to find a junk one at work to cannibalize and check that. The HDD sounds like it goes through the loading process though, so I'm thinking it gets past POST.

[RealGeorgeW Valued Expert]

*doesn't have

[RedWyv3 Best Buy Employee]

Without the right equipment to test, you'll have to do the swapout and test method - you know, removal of one part, slapping in another one (video card, memory, etc - and yes, you can 'replace' a built in GPU by putting another one in, it sometimes disables the old one). Rinse and repeat till it works. The reseating the memory bit is a great suggestion.

If it's not posting it could be because of a hangup with one of the componets - or, it could be something on the motherboard which cannot be replaced, unfortunatly.

(Or a ground-out!)

[RealGeorgeW Valued Expert]

Tried the reseating suggestion, notta.

Made sure it wasn't the DVI>HDMI cable and hooked up a monitor, notta.

Might just save up and put new parts all around lol.

[macrobb]

I would blame the PSU as it stands right now. Lets look at the facts:

1. Bottom-rung PSU from a relatively no-name brand, rebranded as Apevia(There's about 4 actual manufacturers of PSUs: CWT, FSP, Seasonic and /unknown chinese factory/). I'd be surprised if it could put out 300W under /optimal/ conditions, not that you need it. (*)

2. Computer won't boot, but harddisks spin up. Sounds to me like, say, the 3.3V rail or one of the other low-voltage rails for the main system failed, but not the 12V rail that supplies the harddisks. Most drives will spin up with power, even if they aren't connected to anything data-wise.

My solution? Buy yourself a new PSU(preferably from a quality brand like Corsair or Antec). Alternately, yank one from something else you have around, and plug it in. It doesn't *have* to be mounted in the case.

(*) A note about PSUs: As more people built their own machines, and bought expensive, high-wattage power supplies, the chinese vendors realized that almost noone *actually* needs, say, 500W. So, they build them for about 250-300W, label them 400-900W, and sell them for cheap; Most people won't ever run into the limit, and so they can get away with it(Note: ever take apart a Dell or HP system? Note the low wattage on their supply. Also note that those supplies *will* supply what they are rated for, which is why it works).

On top of that, they also cheapen it by reducing components that aren't absolutely critical - using lower quality capacitors to even out the voltage coming out, for instance. This will cause random crashes when you near the actual maximum output of the supply, and other odd glitches.

In your case, you most certainly didn't run into that limit. But you did run into simply having a DoA and or simply something with a weak component, which simply died on you. I would try to find a better quality one - Quality PSUs(which should have the 80+ logo and not cost $20) are both far more efficient, and will keep your system running well for years.

[RealGeorgeW Valued Expert]

I would LOVE to take the PSU out of my main tower.... except all the power cables are zip tied LOL. Been working on getting a cheap mobo to swap out for testing, and I think I can get another PSU at work... maybe.

....or I'll just swap ALL the parts out

[macrobb]

Zip ties are hard to cut?

Just pick up a cheap pack to replace them with, cut them all, yank it out, test it, then put it back. A couple of hours work, at the outside.

[RedWyv3 Best Buy Employee]

A couple hours? At most, a half hour, and that's if you're drunk at the time and have a very dull knife! Remember, you're not pulling the cables going to the case (always the pain, as they are usually poorly marked), you're just pulling the power supply. If you've never done it before, remember to look at the drives and see how they are plugged in - the reasoning behind everything will some 'click' in your mind and you'll lose your fear quite quickly.

It's not like you have to worry about plugging the floppy drive in upside down. No idea why I always did that..